2006 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac, France 750ml

The 2006 Pichon Lalande, which blows away the 2005, represents a return to the velvety-textured, rich, sexy style most readers would associate with Pichon Lalande. This blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon and 36% Merlot no Petit Verdot was included in the final blend exhibits a dense purple color as well as abundant aromas of chocolate, coffee, cedar, black currants, and a subtle touch of smoke, a rich, savory, full-bodied mouthfeel, plump, fleshy fruit, and a superb finish. This is a 21st century version of the brilliant 1996. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2030. One of the major disappointments in 2005 was Pichon Lalande, but the change in ownership, with the Roederer/Deutz champagne firm taking control in 2006, resulted in a very severe selection being instituted, only 41% of the production went into the grand vin.

Tasted blind at Southwold '06 Bordeaux tasting. This is much more closed on the nose: blackberry and graphitevery tightly coiled at present. The palate is full-bodied with saturated tannins, very pure and viscous, modern style winemaking but there is wonderful balance and focus, leading to a sumptuous, structured finish with tinctures of damson, apricot and raisin counterpoising the austere Cabernet. This is a long-term Pichon-Lalande that may ultimately outclass the '05. Tasted January 2010.