Robert Parker, 90 for 2003 Chateau de Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone Cuvee Syrah Reserve, Rhone, France 750ml at Fine Wines International

The 2003 Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone Cuvee Syrah is one of the best made in many years. The wine, which was funky and weird when I tasted it from barrel last year, has cleaned up its act, exhibiting a dense ruby/purple color to the rim and a beautifully sweet nose of melted licorice, blackberries, and raspberries with some pepper and scents of roasted meat. The wine has huge tannins, is massive and full-bodied, and largely undrinkable for a good 4-5 years. It should behave like some of the finest vintages of the past and age for two decades.